As it turned out, overtaking the palace- and King ThibawMin- was even easier than predicted. The British demanded unconditional surrender and that’s what they got.The King and Queen were put on a bullock cart and taken down to the river to be sent into exile in India.

The story goes that when the British soldiers pulled out their guns, the King dropped down to his knees and begged for his life to be spared. His queen, however, walked on her own defiantly towards the steamer on the mighty Irrawaddy.

After the British invasion, the palace was used by the colonialists as a base for troops in Mandalay and many of the royal treasures were looted and sent back to London ( many are still on display at the Victoria and Albert Museum).
Every global aggress or eventually must face a rising challenger. And so it was that during the Second World War, Japanese forces captured he Mandalay Palace and used it as a supply depot for their expansions in the region. In retaliation, the Allies bombed the compound and most of it was burnt to the ground.

Only one major wooden building survived-the Shwenandaw Monastery, which is built completely of teak and is decorated throughout with detailed and ornate carvings. The watch tower and royal mint were also undamaged. The rest of the Royal Palace has been rebuilt from scratch.

So, almost everything you walk through from the entrance hall all the way past the throne room and to the residences was constructed in the early 1990’s. Although it is faithful to the original design and some traditional construction techniques were used, modern materials like concrete and corrugated iron were incorporated into the reconstructions.
Visiting the palace is one of the best things to do in Mandalay. It doesn’t take too long to walk through the palace but it can take a long time to get into it. The palace grounds are massive and dominate the cityscape. They are huge square of about two kilometers on each side, surrounded by a 64 meter-wide moat. Only one entrance can be used by tourists-the eastern- and it can take a long time to get to it if you happen to be on the other side (where most of the hotels are).

There are some great tours in Mandalay, many of which include the Royal Palace. Have a look at these ones that I would recommend:
The reason for the inconvenience is because the actual restored palace takes up only a small space in the centre of the grounds. The rest of the area is used now as a military base and big signs (and guards) remind you that it’s a restricted zone.

At least it is back in the hands of the local people again, whatever the international view of the Myanmar military is.
After the British control and then the Japanese it seems there is now plenty of protection for this important symbol of Mandalay and Myanmar. Nobody will march unopposed through these gates again.

” The last Palace built by Burmese Royals”

When King Mindon Min founded Mandalay in 1857 he ordered construction of a new Royal Palace called the “Mya Nan San Kyaw”. The old Royal Palace in the former capital Amarapura was dismantled, transported to Mandalay and rebuilt there.

The Mandalay Royal Palace is the last Palace built by Burmese Royals. On the large complex are dozens of buildings including audience halls, throne halls, a monastery, a watch tower, a court building, a tooth relic building and a library where the Buddhist scriptures were kept.

“The citadel with the teak wood Palace”

The Palace that was completely made from teak wood was built in the center of a large citadel or fort. The square citadel was surrounded by four walls each 2 kilometers long with a total of 48 turrets. In the walls were 12 gates, one for each sign of the Zodiac. Around the walls was a 60 meter wide moat, crossed by a number of bridges.

“Watch Tower”

The watch tower is a very solid reddish brown cylindrical tower measuring 24 meters high. It is topped by a golden seven tiered Pyatthat roof. The stairway winding around the tower can be climbed, which gives a good overview of the Palace and great views of Mandalay.
The watch tower is one of only two original buildings left, the other one being the Royal Mint.

” Tooth relic Tower”

Close to the main entrance is the Burmese style tooth relic tower. The all white square structure has a small square relic chamber on top and a steep stairway leading to it. In spite of its name the building never contained a relic from the Buddha, it houses a Buddha statue instead.

“Supreme Court Building”

A number of Royal Mausoleums was erected for the remains of several members of the Burmese Royal Family. One if for the founder of Mandalay and the Royal Palace, King Mindon Min.

“Great Audience Hall”

The Great Audience Hall is another very attractive, intricately decorated building. The hall is about 75 meters long and topped with a seven tiered Pyatthat roof. In front of it are a few old canons. The wooden bargeboards and eaves boards on the roof are all carved in flower patterns. In the original building there were also gilded.

“Lion Throne Room”

The Lion Throne room contained the Lion Throne, an extremely richly decorated and ornamented wooden throne. In total there were eight thrones in the Palace, of which the Lion Throne was the most important.
On top of the Lion Throne room is a seven tiered Pyatthat roof, richly decorated and gold plated. This Pyatthat marks the center of the Palace.

“Glass Palace”

The Glass Palace is one of the largest and most beautiful structures of the Palace. This building was used as Kin Mindon’s personal living quarters. It contains two large rooms, one of which contained the Bee Throne, the other one was separated into a number of smaller rooms, which were the King’s living room and bed room , as well as a number of rooms for his Queens.

“Golden Palace Monastery”

The Shwenandaw Kyaung or Golden Palace Monastery is a very ornate teak building that was originally contained in the Palace compound. It was later moved to its current location just outside the Palace grounds and converted into a Buddhist monastery. The Golden Palace Monastery is the only major all teak building that remains of the original Royal Palace.

It has been a century since the last King of Burmese staying in the Royal Mandalay Palace. To date, it has been restored several times and become one of the most popular attractions to visit in Myanmar tours. Once witnessing the charm of the fabulous architecture and learn more about its history, it ensures to deliver you an interesting experience in the Golden Land of Myanmar.

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Taking this Irrawaddy Dolphin Watching trip in the hottest month in Myanmar turned out to be a great idea. As a group of 4 we opted for the 2 days/ 1 night trip and enjoyed the cooling breeze and beautiful scenery as we slowly made our way up the river.

What is an Irrawaddy Dolphin?

Irrawaddy dolphins (Orcaella brevirostris) are an oceanic dolphin named after the Irrawaddy (Ayeyawaddy) River and are one of the world’s five species of dolphins that live in rivers. They have a grey body, a blunt forehead and nose, unlike the other oceanic dolphins, and can live up to 50 years. They use echolocation (sound) to hunt fish and communicate together. Irrawaddy dolphins are endangered and have an estimated total population of 7,100. They are found in only three rivers today, and there are less than 70 individuals left in the Irrawaddy River in Myanmar, where they are critically endangered.

What’s endangering Irrawaddy Dolphins?

• Shock by electrofishing
• Entanglement in gill nets or drift nets put across the river
• Lack of food as a result of over-fishing
• Pollution from mining and other industry
• Noise disturbance from large boats
• Less habitat from soil erosion

What is cooperative fishing?

Communication via calls and signals is made by both dolphins and fishermen, with the dolphins rearing schools of fish towards the cast net fishing boats and signalling to the fishermen to throw their nets when the fish near close to the boat. Only a handful of fishermen still practice cooperative fishing with dolphins these days. Communicating with dolphins and coordinating the throw with their signals takes years of skill and trust building with dolphins. The tradition is dying, as modern fishing practices and economics take over. Illegal electrofishing is also breaking down the trust between dolphins and fishermen, as dolphins are sometimes shocked and killed.

Ayeyawady Dolphin Protected Area

Myanmar’s Ayeyawady Dolphin Protected Area is the only place where you can see both Irrawaddy dolphins and the cooperative fishing tradition. It was the country’s first aquatic protected area, established in 2005, stretches for 74 km and has approximately 25 dolphins in the area. It is best visited from Mandalay on an overnight boat trip for 2 or 3 days in order to maximise your chances of spotting dolphins and having ample time to witness cooperative fishing in action. There are seven cooperative fishing villages that can be visited along the way that still maintain traditional culture, as well as other attractions such the 126 species of birds of the Upper Ayeyawaddy.

How Your Visit Helps

• Generates income for cooperative fishermen and their families
• Creates incentives for dolphin protection
• Raises awareness to protect dolphins & cooperative fishing
• Proceeds from the project’s revenue (5%) and donations by visitors help with community development

Spending 2 days 1 night on the river with Living Irrawaddy Dolphin Project was the best decision we made in Mandalay. The most amazing thing about this trip was not only seeing dolphins, but also learning about the unique relationship between local fishermen and dolphins. Cooperative fishing with wild dolphins doesn’t exist anywhere on earth but this part of the Irrawaddy River. One of the fishermen even told us a beautiful folktale about their relationship with dolphins.

Another thing we really enjoyed on this trip is we got to interact with the villagers. They showed us how to apply thanaka, how to wear longyi (traditional men’s sarong), how to throw a net, etc. It was a lot of fun! Food (cooked by the villagers) was very good and vegetarian friendly.

The moments on the boat from village to village were very relaxing too. I would love to try it again and would recommend it to anyone looking for a very authentic experience interested in getting to know life in rural Myanmar.

Your visit helps raise awareness for dolphin protection and generates income for local fishermen to continue their practice of cooperative fishing with dolphins. This is a social business. They are neither an NGO nor a strictly for-profit company.They use business to create benefits for communities and conservation. This project is an initiative of Living Irrawaddy Travel, a small local travel company.The Living Irrawaddy Dolphin Project is an initiative of Living Irrawaddy Travel and works with 6 communities to help them develop and market community-based ecotourism.

For your visit, you can get more detail information at info@hotelredcanal.com.

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The Burmese new year falls on the second week of April as begins on 13th april and will end on 16th april. April always will be the welcomed day of our Burmese New Year.

The true spirit of the water festival is to have nice clean fun with dear friends sprinkling water on the one another. Here are the symbols of “Thingyan Festival”.

“Ah-Tar-Oh”, “Thingyan Pot”

The Pot with its set of flowers and leaves, is called “Ah-Tar-Oh”, ‘Thingyan Pot’.
“Ah-Tar-Oh”, “Thingyan Pot” meaning is that ” pot of flowers put out during Thingyan to welcome the New Year”.In this pot , the seven flowers or leaves are chosen and represent the seven days of the week.
It welcomes our Burmese New Year, especially to the King of the Celestials- Tha-Gyar-Min. Whether he forgets to come or not, we never forget to welcome him with ‘Thingyan Pot’.
We place Thingyan Pot at the suitable place in front of our house and hope that he will see it and let our names be engraved on his Gold plate.

“Shinbyu”, “Novitiation Ceremony”

Novitiation is the symbol of thingyan festival in a Buddhist family. It is one of the New Year activities. On these occasions, boys are sent to the monastery where they become ‘koyins’,or novices .They stay for a week or more at the monastery. Their heads are shaved. They wear yellow robes. They go on alms rounds carrying black alms bowls. They keep sabbath.

Novitiation ceremony; the boy sat obediently middle of his parents, the head was going to be shaved by the monk and his parents with happiness proudly held a snow-white sheet to receive his hair.
The Shinbyu, or Novitiation ceremony, is a coming of age ceremony as in other religions, for boys under 20 years old. The Novitiate ceremony is when boys do their service to Buddhism and are entered into the order of the monks for a week or longer.

“Padauk Pan” ,Symbol of Burmese Thingyan Festival Flowers

Padauk Pan(Yellow Flowers called Padauk) only blossom on April if fortunately given water from celestial(Rain showering). Padauk never blossom on any other Burmese months. In April, Burmese women wear Padauk on their head and also offer before our household shrines. If no thingyan shower for the month of april, we rarely see the beautiful Padauk on Thingyan month.
Famous poet named ZawGyi portrayed about this flower as ‘blossom only on the day of the month of a year, how faithful art thou!’

“Mandat”,Pandals made with Coconut leaves or Palm Leaves

During the Thingyan days, the Mandat, water throwing and playing places are everywhere, not only in cities but also in villages too. In the main city of Yangon and Mandalay, people use water guns, buckets and water hoses to make others wet. Young people would dye their hair to make themselves look cool. They would go around the town in cars to get wet. Some making their own Mandat made with coconut leaves and celebration together the water festival with friends.

On the New Year’s Day people make food donations at various places.All these April days, there is music in the air.While Thinngyan is a time for fun, it is also a time for religious reflection.People keep fast, give alms and do good deeds.

Happy Myanmar New Year for you all !. May this auspicious New Year brings all the best for you.

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The monastery was originally part of the Royal Palace in Amarapura, before it was moved to Mandalay, where it formed the northern section of the Hmannan (Glass Palace) and part of the king’s royal apartments. The building was heavily gilt with gold and adorned with glass mosaic work.

When the capital city was moved to Mandalay, the building was dismantled, transported to Mandalay and rebuild there as part of the new all teak Royal Palace in 1857.

Mandalay, Burma (Myanmar)

Shwenandaw Monastery was built in 1878 by King Thibaw Min, who dismantled and relocated the apartment formerly occupied by his father, King Mindon Min, just before Mindon Min’s death, at a cost of 120,000 rupees.

Thibaw removed the building in 10 October 1878, believing it to be haunted by his father’s spirit. The building reconstruction was finished in 31 Oct 1878, dedicated in memory of his father, on a plot adjoining Atumashi Monastery. It is said that King Thibaw used it for meditation, and the meditation couch he sat on can still be seen.

The monastery is also called the Golden Palace Monastery, because it used to be part of the Mandalay Royal Palace and was completely gilded. Both exterior and interior of the monastery are decorated with intricate wood carvings. Some of the carved wooden panels ravaged by time and weather have been replaced with new panels, especially on the outside.

Mandalay, Burma (Myanmar)

Well known for it’s teak carvings of Buddhist myths, which adorn its walls and roofs. The monastery is built in the traditional Burmese architectural style. The roof lines are decorated with very detailed intricate wood carvings. The roofs bargeboards contain carved depictions of mythical creatures, animals, dancers and flowers.

Mandalay, Burma (Myanmar)

Some of the best preserved panels are inside the building, sheltered from weather and sunlight. Among them is a number of carved panels depicting scenes from the Jataka tales, the tales about the previous lives of the Buddha.
Inside the main room in the center of the building is the main Buddha image, with Nat spirits worshipping it. Only men can go inside to worship the Buddha image.

Mandalay, Burma (Myanmar)

The Shwenandaw Monastery is located a few hundred meters from the North East section of the Royal Palace grounds, next to the Atumashi pagoda. From downtown Mandalay you can get there by rickshaw which should cost around US$2 or by private taxi at around US$ 4.

Tourist can buy a Mandalay archeological zone ticket at US$ 10, that is valid for a week. This ticket is also valid for the Atumashi Pagoda located right next to it and for a number of sites around Mandalay in the towns of Sagaing, Innwa and Amarapura.

Mandalay, Burma (Myanmar)

This is a great place to get an impression of what the Royal Palace once must have looked like. As the Palace was destroyed by fire during the second World War, the Shwenandaw Monastery is the only major original teak wooden building left of the original Mandalay Royal Palace.

Mandalay, Burma (Myanmar)

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Our flight was with “Oriental Ballooning”, an awesome hot air ballooning company in Myanmar that does flights over the Mandalay, Bagan, Inle and Ngapali. The night before our flight I didn’t sleep much as I was a bit anxious for some reason. Hot air ballooning is something that has ALWAYS been at the top of my bucket list and “Hotel by the Red Canal” arranged for that.

I was picked up from our hotel on-time at 5.45am and transferred to the balloon site where we were met personally by the all pilots and given a breakfast of the best pastries we had in Myanmar and coffee and tea. Following a short safety briefing by our pilot (Allie Dunnington with many years balloon piloting experience in many countries), we watched the balloons inflate and then climbed aboard.

We’re going how high today? I said to the pilot of our hot air balloon told us we’d be reaching an altitude of 3000 feet. That’s 1 km in the air!

We’d be going way up, I started to feel my knees go weak.

There were four of us plus our pilot in our balloon, squished in snuggly with just enough room. Our flight took off from a random field up-wind from the monastry call ” Mahar Wi Thode Dar Yone” located in the area of “Nan Shae” near Nan Shae Market. It was early morning with a heavy fog just lifting which gave us some spectacularly epic scenes to capture and the royal moat was as still as could be. It was almost fairy tale like.

The experience was magical as we floated low over near “Kuthodaw Pagoda” and “Mandalay Hill” in every direction, the early morning sun just beginning to bathe them in colour. The peace and tranquillity, the unbelievable sights just below, the strangeness of the situation. This was the highlight of our trip to Myanmar.

It was so calm and smooth, it was as if we were hardly moving. Aside from the off and on loud roar of the propane cylinders firing to keep us in the air and the beep of the altimeter it was a very peaceful experience. That was until I remembered that we still had to land the darn thing… however this also turned out to be quite smooth and easy.

After about an hour or so of soaring and up and down over the clouds and fog our pilot began searching for a nice place to land. This is when I then realized that since hot air balloons can’t really steer in any particular direction and they just float along with the air streams that they also don’t always have a designated landing spot. Or at all. Ever. They just find a piece of land that looks clear, hope for the best and hope the land owners don’t mind.

Our hot air ballooning experience in Lithuania wasn’t over yet though. We were then told about a hot air ballooning tradition after ones first flight. Apparently over 200 years ago in France the first hot air balloon was successfully piloted and upon landing one of the men fell out and got dirt on his face and the other accidentally singed his hair on the ignition in the balloon and to celebrate their successful flight they toasted with champagne. Because of this there is a tradition that is almost like a knighting ceremony in a way. Each of us were asked to get down on one knee and the pilots then proceed to singe some of our hair, put some dirt on our faces and then pour champagne on our heads! This was definitely a new tradition for me.

This was my first ever hot air ballooning trip, and it was absolutely magic! Oriental Ballooning are great operators, being extremely safety conscious and with the most experienced British pilots -ours had been flying over Bagan, Myanmar since 2000! Drifting for an hour or so over the hundreds of Pagodas of the Irrawaddy River plains during sunrise was an experience not to be missed and can book via “Hotel by the Red Canal” tour desk. They can organize for you very well.

Other people that were with me who had hot air ballooned in other parts of the world had never experienced this before, who knows. However it was all in good fun and we all got to celebrate afterwards with a nice glass of champagne.
Now I can’t wait to do it again somewhere else in Myanmar! Have you ever flown in a hot air balloon? Where did you do it?

May Malar Win

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Argentina is a perfect destination for cross-country skiing. In general, it has many sites where you combine adventure and the pleasure of skiing. Patagonia is a must for ski touring. This region offers impressive hiking tours through vast spaces and picturesque landscapes. Lakes, mountain villages, forests and wild nature are within easy reach. Here is an idea of itinerary to give you an overview of the journey.

Ski Touring around Bariloche

After your arrival in Buenos Aires, join San Carlos de Bariloche, the capital of Patagonia. This town is well located at the foot of the Andes mountains, on the South coast of Lake Nahuel Huapi and in the park and near the ski slopes. Located at 764 meters above sea level, it is set in a landscape of mountains, lakes, forests and rivers surrounded by numerous high peaks of the Andes. To discover the wealth of the region, head for Cerro Catedral, the largest ski area on the continent.

It is 20 km from the city and has 103 km of slopes located at an altitude between 1,000 and 2,100 meters. You can not miss it during your holiday in Argentina. Your hike will take you to the Regy Frey through corridors and needles that give to a circus leading to various passes, corridors and summits. The landscape is really impressive with powdery snow. To reach the Principal Catedral, you will make several climbs to admire a breathtaking view of the lake. After this you will continue to the Jakob refuge, crossing the Cancha de Futbol and also Cerro Brecha Negra. Before reaching Bariloche, you will make a descent in the vast valley Casa de Piedra.

Next Step from Calafate

Calafate is a city in the province of Santa Cruz. It is located in Patagonia near the southern shore of Lake Argentino. It should be noted that it is the gateway to the southern region of Patagonia. From here, drive to the village of El Chalten 215 km north, renowned for being the national capital of hiking. For your information, the landscapes in this part of Argentina are truly breathtaking. Very well located, El Chatén is located at the confluence of the Rio Fitz Roy and the Vueltas near the Los Glaciares National Park.

During a ski tour, you will explore the Cerro Mosquito at an altitude of 1,300 meters, where there is a lookout that promises a view of all the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre chains. Always at the foot of the Fitz Roy, you will admire the Glacier de Los Tres. After your return to El Chalten, plan a day of skiing on the Vespigniani glacier. To complete your trip, do not miss the Perito Moreno Glacier, a very famous glacier in the area.

Photo Credit By BluesyPete (Own work)
https://www.prestige-voyages.com/argentine

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First outlet of The Hotel by the Red Canal’s Spice Garden Restaurant was opened on January 2007 in Mandalay and growing. Spice Garden built its worldwide reputation through imitations of unique styles for its dinner, one of which is the style of the Royal Palace of Mandalay. It is now well known as the Spice Garden Bar and Restaurant. As a family of passionate restaurateurs, the Spice Garden Bar & Restaurant strive to create great slow foods experiences for our guests through excellent food and service.

Spice Garden offers a nightlife experience unlike any other is the perfect place for a get together. Or get your high class party, gathering party, birthday party, anniversaries party and special candle light dinner with your partners. Cooking class and catering services produce an experience like no other.

The employees at the restaurant are very amiable, they would tell you in details about authentic traditional foods. Murgh Tandoori, for instance, commonly known as Tandoori Chicken which is tender, juicy and mildly spiced to allow the natural flavor of the meat to come through, cooked in the traditional tandoor to allow a smoky charcoal flavor to seep into the meat.

Many other menu items including Naan (leavened flatbread) ” table favourites of past Moghul emperors” are available now.For starters, you can have snacks made with homemade cheese called “paneer pakoras”. Next, you can have “Kheer” (rice pudding) for dessert with its matching nuts.

A spice is a seed, fruit, root, bark, or other plant substance primarily used for flavoring, coloring or preserving food. Spices are distinguished from herbs, which are the leaves, flowers, or stems from plants used for flavoring or as a garnish. Spices are sometimes used in medicine, religious rituals, cosmetics or perfume production, or as a vegetable and it is good for health.

The decor of Spice Garden is in the colonial French House style can enjoy with garden views. You can have Old World Wines and New World Wines, such as red wine, white wine, sparkling wine, Rose’ and Champagne etc. All the menu items are in dollars, but you can, if you wish, pay in kyats (local currency) at the prevailing exchange rates. Wine prices range from USD 15 at bottle to USD 60, and the dishes range from USD 2 to USD 30.

Spice Garden serves aromatic freshly brewed coffee that goes well with your travels. Fresh healthy juices are also served. A variety of beers and soft drinks, along with beverages mentioned above, are available at competitive reasonable prices. Both indoor and alfresco settings are available. So, opening hour starts from 11:00am to 11:00pm every day. The restaurant, located in one of the quietest sections of Mandalay, No.(417) ,Corner of 22nd and 63rd Street, Aung Myae Tha Zan Township.

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She welcome everybody, as the name Spice Garden herself may sound like a place for healthy drinks and strongly focuses on her healthy kitchen as well. Believes that having good healthy food plays a big roles in the success of a F&B outlet. The uniqueness of restaurant is going to be very hard to be described in words, as you will need to come and experience them for yourself.

And what so especial about Spice Garden is that we ensure happiness among staffs. Strongly believes that customers’ satisfaction and happiness is correlated to her staff’s happiness. Therefore, if their staffs are happy, they can definitely keep their customers happy.

Hotel by the Red Canal, Mandalay, Burma (Myanmar)

THANK YOU!

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There are said to be a million pagodas and stupas! In the rural village of Bagan alone, there are over 3000 structures on a plain of 42km², the site of the first Burmese kingdom between the 11th and 13th centuries.

In each city, town and remote village, there are pagodas to be found.

Fascinatingly, although hundreds are now in ruins, countless are still places of active worship and the centre of community life. In addition, hundreds of Buddhist temples are being built, to add to the existing vast numbers. I saw new construction – with bamboo scaffolding – as well as restoration, in each place I visited.

Donating money to build a pagoda on temple grounds, or to support a monastery, is one of the most  popular ways to earn merit (kutho), believed to allay illness and misfortune and secure a better rebirth in the next life. The wide practice of Theravada Buddhism in Myanmar permeates the daily life of the people, ranking them as the world’s most generous country, along with the US. I experienced the renowned hospitality when I was invited off the street into a private home in again to enjoy a magnificent meal with an extended family.

Exploring some of the major temples and their nearby monasteries, observing the vibrant and bustling activity, is a major attraction of Myanmar. When you enter a temple, whether it is famous like Shwedagon Paya in Yangon, Mahamuni Payi in Mandalay or a small one you discover near your hotel at Inle Lake, you will be required to take off your shoes. Women and children will approach you selling fresh cut flowers, fruit or incense, which are placed at the shrines as an offering.

Once you are inside the temple, expect numerous images of Buddha. Sometimes a huge statue dominates in each of the four compass points. Aspects of the life of Buddha are shown in various ways using sculpture and paintings.

Some temples sell gold leaf, which is pressed on to certain statues as an act of worship. In some places the gold is so thick that the Buddha effigy becomes an amorphous mass.

In the Maha Myat Muni Pagoda, in Mandalay, women are not permitted to apply the gold leaf. The Buddha-graven images frequently have brightly coloured and flashing lights above them. Sometimes pillars are also entwined with these pulsating lights.

The devotion and sincerity of the worshippers is touching.  As you are not allowed to point your foot at a Buddha image, people tend to either sit on their knees or cross-legged as they meditate or pray. In one temple I saw a tiny toddler copying her mother, who was bowing down.

STRIKING: Gilded turrets of the magnificent Schwedagon Pagoda in Yangon – Pictures: GILLIAN MCLAREN

Outside the temple there is a sizeable bell, which you can ring using a thick wooden stick. This is a symbol of Buddha’s voice, calling for the protection of deities and sustaining the order of things in the universe. Children love to sound the bells and gongs and vie to see who can make the loudest sound. Stray dogs and cats wander in and out of the temples, seeking food and shade.

Faith and superstition go hand-in-hand in Myanmar. I saw vans selling lotto tickets outside the temples, with individuals carefully considering which ticket to choose. People still consult astrologers to find a marriage partner or an auspicious date for a major life event. In private homes I visited, personal shrines to Buddha included spirit houses for “nat”, or spirit beings. Tree spirit shrines can be seen on venerated Banyan trees, which symbolise Buddha’s enlight-enment.

FAMILY PRAY : A toddler copies her mom in Mandalay

People of all ages can spend an unspecified time as a monk or nun. In the early mornings, members of he Sangha walk in the streets with their bowl (formerly known as a begging bowl, but now as an offering bowl) wearing their robes. Men are clad in saffron and women in pink. Restaurant owners, or any lay people come out on to the streets with pots of rice – or if the Sanga is lucky maybe some curry – which they ladle into the bowls.

Giving food to the monks and nuns is done willingly as an offering, as unto Buddha and is considered a righteous act that creates positive karma.

Feeding birds is another way of making an offering, so birdseed is sold and thrown to the pigeons.

REVERED: Reclining Buddha Temple in Yangon

Now is the time to visit this fascinating country, which was one of the most isolated in the world, but opened to the West – and to the thought of democracy – in 2011.

Be surprised and delighted by tradition where all the men wear sarong-like longhis, women and children paint their faces with tha-naka made from bark, old men and woman savour cheroots or chew on bright red betel nut and tea houses are almost as abundant as temples.

Places to stay

• The Strand Yangon, set in the vibrant old city, surrounded by grand colonial-period buildings, is recently refurbished, but still steeped in tradition from the colonial era, with delicious high teas and fine-dining, whirring ceiling fans, a smoking bar and butler to unpack your clothes. See hotelthestrand.com
• Blue Bird Hotel Bagan, in a verdant garden, with swimming pool and al fresco restaurant, is an oasis, on a dust road in a village which is a walking distance from some of the extraordinary temples of Bagan. Local people are employed and sound eco-friendly principles are practised here. See bluebirdhotelbagan.com
• Hotel by the Red Canal, Mandalay, is a boutique hotel in a welcoming space enclosing a lush garden with water features. It has a striking pagoda-style roof, red teak furniture and lavish amenities. See hotelredcanal.com
• The Strand Cruise is the perfect way to get from Bagan to Mandalay in pure luxury, enjoying excellent food, exploring fabulous temples and local life along the Ayeyarwady river, with musical and puppet shows by local artists, plus demonstrations on how to wear a longhi and facial thanaka paste. See thestrandcruise.com
• Sanctum Inle Resort is tranquil and elegant, with high ceilings and selected teak furniture, set in a large garden including tamarind trees, with views over an infinity swimming pool to paddy fields and the Inle Lake, with the Shan mountains. It is well sited for taking day boat trips to water villages. See sanctum-inle-resort.com

How to get there

Cathay Pacific, measured as the world’s safest airline for the last three years, has a business class cabin that is spacious, open and decorated in soothing tones.

Having an ergonomically designed flat bed, the longest and widest of any commercial airline, I slept soundly.

Generous storage space, intuitive seat and entertainment system controls, fabulous food and wine served by efficient staff made this an exceptionally comfortable and enjoyable long-haul option.

Well worth the extra cost, Cathay Pacific Premium Economy seats in a quiet, roomy separate cabin are bigger, wider and have a pitch of 15cm more than economy class. I appreciated the large meal table, cocktail table, 27cm personal television and added space to stow my cameras.

The welcome champagne did not go amiss, nor did the personal water bottle and extra snacks. Five kilograms of extra luggage and priority check-in and boarding are a boon. I highly recommend this choice.

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